No tags yet.
Let’s face it. Managing weeds organically is a bit more challenging than using herbicides. But it does not have to be overwhelming! If you haven’t already, read Part 1 of my blog post on organic weed management, called “The Basics”. With a bit of knowledge and some decent tools and techniques, you will be able to keep on top of things and enjoy the beauty of your gardens without the distraction of weeds. Also, thinking of gardening as a form of exercise and even therapy, can help re-frame the job from one that seems like “just one more thing” on your to-do list, to something that can be good for your health and soothing to your soul. I don’t go to a gym. I go to the garden.
The tools that you use to weed are going to be what makes the difference between it being a manageable and relatively fast job or a draining and overwhelming one. Well-maintained, sharp tools also require much less physical effort and make the job go much faster. I recommend 3 hand-weeding tools - a two-pronged weeder, a small weeding sickle and a weeding knife. I also recommend 2 long-handled tools - the stirrup hoe and a diamond hoe.
Top 3 Hand-Weeding Tools
#1 - Two-Pronged (dandelion) Weeder
If you only buy one hand tool, it should be the 2 pronged weeding fork, also sometimes called a dandelion weeder. These versatile tools are inexpensive and can be used for a wide variety of weeds.
These weeders have two small prongs at the end of a shaft with a handle. Even a pretty cheap dollar store version works pretty well! This tool can be used for weeds once they’ve gotten beyond the seedling stage. It’s especially useful for weeds that have long ventral roots, or taproots - like dandelions and cockelburrs. Insert the prong under the leaves and down into the soil. Then push down and the root will pop out, usually! Weeding is an art, not a science. There will often be remains of the root that get left behind, that will - so sadly - grow again! But with practice, you will be able to get most of the root, most of the time. And when you get lucky enough to pull up an entire long root, it’s not exaggerating to say that it’s an amazingly satisfying experience.
This tool works even on pretty tough and big weeds. No older and more established, thick or woody stems, though. Probably anything over over 10” high is not the best fit for this tool. For those you need something more heavy-duty, like a weeding knife, which I’ll discuss below.
#2 - Wedding Sickle
The weeding sickle is virtually unknown in American gardens, but is a a very commonly used tool throughout Asia. It is one of the most versatile, efficient and fun-to-use tools that I have. I fell in love with these after a group of Japanese visitors gave one to me as a gift at a student-run farm I managed in college. I was smitten and this has been my go-to weeder ever since.
This little tool can transform your weeding expeirence. The two-pronged weeder is easy to find and relatively inexpensive, but for anything over a small garden, a sickle makes weeding much quicker and less difficult. A well-sharpened and rust-free tool glides under the soil and mulch to effectively cut the weeds with fairly little exertion. And there’s something to the rhythm of using this tool that feels ancient and natural. Get one with a relatively small blade, not over 2” otherwise it is much less effective for weeding. The longer bladed sickles are more for cutting plant stems and stalks.
#3 - Weeding Knife
Another super-handy Asian weeding tool is the weeding knife. This tool is actually becoming a bit more common on American store shelves as we are discovering how handy it is. The beauty of this tool is that it’s like a super heavy-duty serrated knife that can be used to cut out the roots of nearly any weed of any size. Hold the weed’s upper foliage in one hand and cut into the soil at the root. Try to cut as far down as you’re able to hopefully keep the weed from growing back. It’s efficient and effective for large-rooted weeds like trees saplings, mature burdocks, huge dandelions and other out-of-control big weeds.
Top 2 Long-Handled Weeding Tools
#1 - Stirrup Hoe
I’ve sang their praises before. Stirrup hoes are the tool that can take gardening from too much to manageable. Keep a well-sharpened stirrup hoe on hand and you can rely on it to bail you out of on all sorts of weeding projects. Even if weeds get a little too big, this hoe can still chop it up. But the most pleasant experience is using it while the weeds are small. It skims under the soil cutting off weeds and making light work of what could be a tiring job.
Since I use a lot of pea gravel in my perennial landscaping gardens and between my garden beds, this hoe works extremely well in killing the inevitable weeds that crop up in the gravel. But it can also be used in beds with wood mulch, though it’s best to rake some of the mulch out of the way before using.
#2 - Diamond hoe
This is a tool that I only recommend if you have pretty large vegetable gardens. It’s a hoe that is shaped like a diamond and can be used right up to the edge of growing vegetables. It’s small and pointed design makes it delicate enough to get between even closely spaced vegetables. This hoe can make a weeding job that might otherwise have to be done by hand go a lot faster because it can be done with a stand-up tool. Unless you have more than a few rows of vegetables it probably isn’t worth buying, though. But for bigger gardens, it is very nice to have.
It takes practice and luck to not hoe out your crop, so if you catch and kill a few veggies, don’t despair. Most plants if you accidentally pull them out of the soil (rather than cut them up) they can be replanted. And killing a few plants goes with the territory - it’s nearly impossible to avoid even if you’re being very careful.
Aside from tools, it’s you and your body that is the machinery to make your weeding job work. And you want to be well-aware of how gardening can strain your body. For hand-weeding, I recommend finding a spot to sit right down in your garden.This is the most comfortable and least straining position. Work the weeds all around you and then move on to a different spot. If it’s too wet, get a gardening cushion (or just dress in old clothes while you garden and decide you don’t care how wet or dirty you get!). For using longer handled tools, be sure to keep your back pretty straight and use your arms to reach. Too much stooping will give your back a lot of strain. Many people like the garden scooters with wheels, but I find that they only work well for jobs that need to be done off the ground. Anything that is at soil-level requires too much bending and can really strain the back.
It’s best to weed a few days after a rain and when no rain is predicted for a bit to give the weeds a chance to shrivel and die. There are few things more frustrating than weeding and having it rain and water those irritating plants right back into the soil! Weeding in the morning on what will become a hot, sunny day is the best. I do a lot of hand weeding, because I like to be right down there to see what’s going on and it disturbs the soil less. But for unmulched soils, patches of smaller weed seedlings, or a lot of bigger weeds, a long-handled tool so that you can stand up is much more efficient.
With the right kind of well-maintained tools and the right kind of attitude, weeding does not have to be a terrible job. Be mindful of the weather and how you position your body while you’re working and that will make your efforts all the more effective and pleasant. Keeping on top of them by doing a little at least several times a week can also make a huge difference. Don’t wait until the problem gets huge before you do anything. At the point where the weeds get too much and too big, gardens start to feel overwhelming, the work is hard and frustrating and people often give-up and abandon their efforts. If you’re in this situation, don’t give up. Read my next column - Part 3 - on smothering weeds when they’ve gotten beyond you.